Ready to Come Home

This is our last night in Paris and last night of our incredible trip.  The weather in Paris has been warm (60sF) and sunny.  We divided up and explored the city.  Yesterday we started with a climb up to the first level of the Eiffel Tower.  Glorious views of Paris.  A boat ride on the Seine topped the morning.  Bob and Nancy continued a walking tour that included Notre Dame.  Matt and Darcy enjoyed a day of exploration and food.  We celebrated Kati's birthday at a fabulous restaurant.

This morning--more croissants and cafe au lait for breakfast--we took a local bus to Place de la  Madeleine, walked through the Tuileries Garden and took some fun "French mustache pictures"!!

We leave Paris early tomorrow and arrive Seattle 1pm.

Arrived Paris

A long day ended at the Hotel Bosquet in Paris.  Ticket hassles in Nairobi and Amsterdam added tension to the day but all arrived with baggage.  Passed the lights of the Eifel Tower coming into Paris.  Flight from Nairobi included a short, minor medical emergency that I was asked to assist.  "Is there a doctor on the plane" was the call.  Turned out to be a 3 year old with hives.  Mom was worried that it was a nut allergy.  A few lesions but no wheezing or stridor.  Mixed up a small dose of Benadryl (from Darcy's supply) in orange juice only to have the child vomit all over mom.  Sigh.  Child was fine and the rest of the flight without drama.

Tomorrow we explore Paris and celebrate Kati's birthday.

This is the view from our room.

Back in Nairobi

Our two weeks in the Kenyan bush ended today with a flight from the Maasai Mara to Nairobi.   We are now at the Fairmont Hotel.  Arrived here around 1pm local time.  All using the afternoon to resort gear and take some quiet time in prep for the long flight tomorrow to Paris.  Maddy, Linda and I enjoyed a short swim in the pool.

Before leaving this morning we had a one hour game walk.  Maddy has become our superior game finder spotting an African porcupine and 12" Velvet green puff adder.  The snake was right in our path and was missed by our lead guide who was concentrating on a nearby hyena.  Speaking of hyenas, they howled through the night near our camp.  On the walk we watched from a distance a group chase a Wildebesst.  We did not see them take it down but their hoots and growls as well as many other rushing it suggested they did make a kill.  As a final animal sent off, we spotted two cheetahs on the way to the airstrip.

Tomorrow we are up at 5am to head to the airport and the 8+ hour flight to Amsterdam and connecting flight to Paris.  Weather in Paris looks to be terrific - 60s and sunny.  Ah spring in Paris.  What a great way to end the trip.  Oh, and BTW Kati will celebrate her birthday on the 10th.

Lions take down a Cape Buffalo

Last night we returned to find the local lion pride.  As we sat nearby watching them, they and we noticed a group of five Cape Buffalos slowly walking toward us.  One large male, two adult females and a younger female.  After about 15 minutes a number of younger lions pealed off to a spot about 100 yards away.  It was amazing to watch the buffalos not realize the pride was present and watch the increasing tension in the adult lions.  Finally, they attacked.  Back and forth they chased and counter charged.  The buffalos were able to escape with what appeared to minor injuries with several members of the pride in slow pursuit.  We returned to camp.  This morning at 7am we learned a different outcome.  We found the pride's kill site.  One of the buffalos was now reduced to only ribs and a head.  About 10 lions continued to chew on the carcass.  Awaiting in the grass were at least 20 hyenas and several jackals.  From this amazing start we drove south onto the Maasai Mara National Park.  We traveled a short distance with a leopard.  Were amazed at the beauty and vistas of the Mara.  Wide, open grass land filled with Wildebeests, Zebras, Gazelles, Topi, Wart hogs, Maasai Giraffe and more lions.  Breakfast and lunch were along the Mara River with hippos, very large crocodiles and baboons.

Elephant Pepper Game Drives

We have had amazing game drives through the Maasai Mara from Elephant Pepper Camp.  Last night we found a large pride of 23 lions sleeping in the brush.  It looked like a carpet of lions.  Most never even looked up. We also visited a hyena family dug into their burrows awaiting the night hunt of the lions.  Many more animals including Common Zebra, Topi, Grant and Thompson Gazelles, and so many Wart Hogs we could not count.  Just before finding the lion pride we enjoyed watching a small herd of  Wildebeest and Zebras crossing the mara.  Our dinner last night was in the wonderful setting of the main tent.  Our meal was served on silver chargers and china servings.  We had short ribs, potatoes and a marvelous lemon pie.

Today we had an incredible morning game drive.  An elephant family group was first with two youngsters who were playing "bumper cars".  We connected again with the lion pride walking across the grass plain.  They came so close to the truck that several of the lions passed just under our cab.  Bob and I thought briefly that they could join us in the Land Cruiser.  From there we revisited the hyena group and came upon a large number of banded mongoose.  On the drive we also surprised a Spitting Cobra.  Our driver hates snakes! Breakfast was by the Mara River viewing 100+ hippos.  Finally, on the drive back to camp we found a leopard in a tree.  Our final "Big Five" animal.

Arrived Elephant Pepper

After a 11/2 hour flight from Lewa, we arrived on the Maasai Mara, Elephant Pepper Camp.  Almost immediately we spotted the "river pride" of lions, including several large adult males.  Camp is in a beautiful setting.  We are sleeping in true tents tonight.

Our Week at Lewa Ngiri House

We had a full week while staying at Ngiri (Warthog) House.  We continued daily game drives of course, surrounded daily by giraffes, rhinos, elephants, Water buck, zebra and many more.  We also were able to enjoy a daily swim in the pool.  On Monday, we drove to the Maasai community of Sang'a.  It was a 1 1/2 rough road drive.  We have sponsor the adult education teacher there as well as building housing for the teachers.  On this visit, the adults greeted us with a celebration of singing and dancing.  Maddy then helped us distribute to each of the adult learners a solar powered light we had helped to purchase.  The lights with 4 hours of charging would provide 8 hours of light.  The goal is to provide the lighting to help both the adults and children to be able to read and write at night.

On Tuesday we visited the elementary school program at JPP.  JPP is a church facility near Lewa that is used as a local school for grades pre-school through 3.  Next year they'll add Form 4.  Wonderful teachers and great kids!  With teachers drumming and leading the singing, they greeted us warmly.  Then Nancy headed off to Form 3 to share the letters from grandson Cooper's class and facilitate writing of responses.  She was so impressed with the level of English they have already mastered!  When I came back, she was teaching/practicing antonyms and verb tense--chalk in hand!  Maddy and Kati went to Form 1 to share the poster of writings, drawings and photos that Maddy's class had sent.  Those kids drew and wrote notes back to Whittier Elementary for her to deliver.  And Linda headed straight for the nursery/pre-K class. We were all there during the breakfast snack and lunch that our friends fund for them.  So much easier to learn when you're not hungry.  (These children walk as far as 7km one way to get to this school.....)

So today we are comfortably "tented" at Elephant Pepper, a bush camp in the Mara.  It is an open camp--no fences--so the animals roam freely through it at night (and we won't)!  Should be quite a night!

 

Ngiri House

We have moved to Ngiri House.  Very limited wi-fi access for the next few days.  Off to Sanga School tomorrow, then Tuesday JPP Elementary school where we all sponsor the feeding program.  Wednesday we are off to the Maasai Mara and Elephant Pepper Camp.

Lewa Day 5

We spent the day with three Kenyan students who we have sponsored since high school.  Sara is a second year university student in liberal arts.  Lestin is a third year studying environmental studies and urban planning.  David has just completed phase 3 of a certificate program in tourism.  We are so very proud of all of them.  We met them at the Education Trust office and spent the day on a game drive with lunch.  At lunch Sara surprised us all by climbing an Acacia tree in her bare feet.  Maddy chased her up part way.  We saw a wide variety of animals include a large troop (>150) Olive baboons.

Sundowner

We enjoyed drinks at a 'Sundowner' to end our day.

Lewa Day 4

This morning we took a long rough drive north to a Maasai cultural boma.  On the way we chased an ostrich family with four chicks along the road.  Try as we could, they would not leave the road.  At last, by going off road, we were able to pass.  The beautiful clear sky gave us a spectacular view of Mt Kenya to the south.  Note the Black rhino in the foreground.  At the boma, we were greeted by our guide, a young Maasai warrior, who gave us the history of the community and the area.  We then met a donkey in an oryx mask used in hunting, learned how to shot a bow and arrow (Maddy was the expert), and how to start a fire with a stick.  Maddy participated in a "mock battle" and came away with a small wound as a battle scar.  We watched groups of women and men dance.  Maddy again participated in a game of mancala with the elders.  Our visit ended with "shopping" for bead work and other Masaai curios.  This afternoon has been quiet and relaxing with naps, tea and cake at the lodge and enjoying the warm afternoon breezes.

Be sure to check Picasa.  More photos added every day.

Lewa Day 3

This morning we started a game drive with breakfast by the reservior.  We were treated to omelets, bacon and a variety of fruits.  Our entertainment included an elephant troop walk by and a crocodile attempting to catch birds fishing on the water.  We then headed into the Ngare Ndare forest south of Lewa.  We hiked down to a spectacular water fall and then to a deep pool that Matt, Kati and Linda jumped from a rock ledge > 10 feet into the cool water.  On the return trip Maddy spotted a cheetah.  She turned out to be the mother of three young male cubs.  We watched them play together before heading back to camp.

Lewa Day 2

It's the end of Tuesday.  Today we've seen elephants with babies, zebras with babies, male giraffes competing for the cutest girl in the neighborhood, two happily submerged hippos, hundreds of thirsty barn swallows (so familiar!), and a young male cheetah upsetting his mother by sitting on the hood of the Land Cruiser.  Maddy found a tortoise!  We have two terrific guides who have patiently answered every question.  And daily "sundowners" are where we drive along looking at animals, then stop for gin and tonics to watch the sunset.  Gotta bring that tradition home with us!